What’s In Your Tool Box?

If you’re like me, you can never have too many tools. But to properly and safely install a manufactured home, there are some special tools that you need to use. I though it might be helpful to put together a list of the top 11 things that every professional installer should have at every job site.  

 Angle finder with a magnetic base.

                We all know that when installing ground anchors, the angle of the straps cannot exceed 60°.  Be sure you have a tool to measure the strap angle to be certain your strap angle is correct. If you don’t have one, purchase an angle finder and  start checking the straps angle. By the way, it is always smart to snap a picture for your installer file!

 

A continuity tester.

                You know that ever installation manual requires that you perform a continuity test on all metal parts in the home that could possibility become energized. Metal parts like the chassis, heat ducts, metal light fixtures, gas lines, water heaters and furnaces, metal siding or metal roofs, range hoods, etc… A continuous path to ground must be present and you need to perform this test to verify all of these metal parts are grounded.

A continuity tester is a must!

 Continuity testerTester

A circuit tester with a GFCI trip button.

                This allows you perform the required operation test throughout the home as well as test GFCI  outlets, and assure that any slave receptacles (receptacles downstream of the actual device) are protected as well. This is also an easy way to check the operation of any switched receptacles.

Grainger tester

An apparatus to perform a water supply line pressure test.

                This device is probably going to have to be fabricated from plumbing parts. It must include a gauge that can measure pressure, and inlets with shut off valves to allow you to introduce water and air pressure into the water piping. Remember to remove the source of air when conducting the test. 

 H2O testing

A manometer (or other testing gauges that measure in increments not greater than 1/10 lbs.) to conduct gas line testing.

                By now you should know about the two required gas line tests; the high-pressure test (3 psi) that checks the piping and the low-pressure test (6-8 oz or 3/8 to 1/2 psi or 10” to 14” of water column) that checks the entire system as well as the connections to the appliance.  Again, this may be an apparatus  you assemble yourself, or maybe purchase an electronic, digital version. If someone else (like the fuel provider), performs this test for you, make certain to provide them with a copy of the proper test procedures from the installation manual, and get receipt or other written proof that the test was conducted for your files.  

 DSC02976

GFCI protected extension cords.

Working in often damp or wet conditions, with a great possibility of cords being stepped on, frayed or otherwise damaged, you want to reduce the risk of electric shock hazzard. All extension cords must be equipped with Ground Fault protection.gfci-power-extensions-tower-manufacturing

A thermometer to check the water temperature at each of the bath tubs, bath tubs/showers or showers.

                Run the water in each tub or shower fixture for 1 minute at the hottest setting and use a thermometer to assure that the water temperature is not greater than 120°. While the fixtures are generally pre-set, I have seen defects that allowed the water temperature to exceed 120°. Don’t take the risk, test the fixtures.

H2O thermometer

A glue bottle.

                In the event that you ever need to replace a wall panel, section of the ceiling, or a section of the floor decking, it is critical for you to glue the panel or decking to the framing members. A ¼” bead of PVA glue (white glue) is generally sufficient.

wood glue

Go/No Go Gauges for water supply lines.

                If you ever have to install a crimp ring on a water supply line, you need to assure that the crimp is done properly and Go/No Go gauge is the only way to do that!

 go No Go

Safety Glasses

                Everyone working at the job site must wear safety glasses. Having a few extra pairs handy is a great idea.  If your crew likes to wear sunglasses on the job site, make sure that they are equipped with shatter resistant lenses and side shields. 


safety glasses

First Aid Kit.

                Every good set crew has a fully equipped first aid kit available. If you don’t have one, a basic kit runs only about $30.

 first aid kit

I am sure that there are some other important tools that I am forgetting. Feel free to drop me a message if you can add to this list.

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Embedment Factors? Cohesive Soils? Let’s talk about it!

Looking over a recently revised manufactured home installation manual, (DAPIA approved in Feb. 2018),  I ran across something that I thought was worth a closer look.

In the section of the manual that talks about footings, I found a chart titled “Foundation Embedment Factors for Cohesive Soils” (there is also a chart for Non-Cohesive Soils).

In case you are wondering, cohesive soils are described as clay, or soil with a high clay content, which has cohesive strength. Cohesive soil does not crumble, can be excavated with vertical sides, and is like plastic when wet. Cohesive soil is hard to break up when dry and sticks together when submerged. Cohesive soils include clayey silt, sandy clay, silty clay, clay. 

main-qimg-f089365f7a3cf3c9d2f0a1e78f6c0c53-c

Cohesive Soil

 

On the other hand, non-cohesive soils are loose soils like sand, or sandy soils.

Ultimately, by using these charts and directions, you can increase the maximum load per footing based on the depth that the footing is embedded in the soil.

Let’s try to work through the process.  This manufacturer tells me that a 14’ wide home, in the south (20 psf) roof load zone, with piers spaced 8’ apart, has a pier load of 5640 pounds (per pier).

Image (54)

Since I like to auger round footings, the chart for circular shape footings says that I need a 28” round footing at a soil bearing capacity of 1,500 PSF. But my auger is only 24” diameter! Well, this is where the “Foundation Embedment Factors for Cohesive Soils” chart might come in handy!


Image (55)

Since I can only dig 24″ round footings, I need to start there. The chart for circular footings tells me that a 24” round footing can carry 4710 pounds (again 1,500 Soil bearing capacity). I know my 24” round footing will be 36” deep (for example, to get below the frost line) in a clay (cohesive) soil, so I can multiply the 24” footing capacity by the 1.56 as indicated in the cohesive soils chart and my 24” footing works! (4710 pounds x 1.56=7347 pounds, well beyond the 5640 pound load needed to support the home).

Image (56)

 

It is not as confusing as it seems. You just need to know if your soil is cohesive (clay) or non-cohesive and know the footing size and depth. Use the chart to determine the embedment factor and multiply the footing capacity by the factor from the chart.

A few important things to consider before you start reducing footing sizes. Currently, this is specific to only a few manufacturers. You need to check with the Quality Control Manager at your factories to see if they allow you to utilize embedment factors. One manufacturer told me that they provide these designs only upon request.

Next, you need to have a very thorough understanding of the soil at the job site. You need to have all of your documents in order and make certain that the building code official (and possibly the purchaser) understand how you are calculating these footings sizes/loads. As always, keep good records for your installation files, including copies of these charts.

While I am not an engineer, I do think that the embedment factor is to be applied only to poured in place concrete footings. But you can verify that with the factory. 

Finally, on the one manual I reviewed, there is a big typographical error, labeling the chart for non-cohesive soils, so be cautious. Stay in touch with Quality Control folks and watch for further changes to the manuals. 

How to Train Your Code Official

The one thing that all manufactured home installers and retailers have in common, is that they are all impacted by the state or local building code officials and their approach to manufactured housing. Whether a code official oversteps his authority by requiring unnecessary code provisions, minimizes his role by simply issuing permits and occupancy certificates without any oversight, or if they don’t issue building permits for manufactured homes at all, our work is impacted and far too often, negatively.

Code officials that do not understand the manufactured housing program, ultimately add unnecessary costs to the home and limits our ability to provide high quality, durable, safe and affordable housing.

Today, I want to talk a little about what installers and retailers can do to educate code officials and as a result, better position the manufactured housing industry for the future.

The first thing to remember is that the vast majority of code officials receive no formal training in regards to the manufactured housing program(s). Except for the few states that specifically require code officials to receive training on manufactured homes, very few code officials understand manufactured homes. The industry does a poor job explaining how the manufactured housing program works on behalf of the state/local code enforcers. As a result, we are left with a patchwork of requirements which often result in inferior installations, and also undermine the overall affordability of manufactured housing.

To compound matters, installers, retailers, and manufacturers are reluctant to have business-like discussions with code enforcers and as a result, nothing changes. The industry folks I talk with generally adopt one of two extremes when it comes to this relationship (neither of which is correct). Either they object to the code official simply entering a manufactured home, or they are of the opinion that it is easier, cheaper, or faster to just do everything the building code official asks.  No matter which approach you take, it ultimately supports the notion that either we have something to hide, or that the construction and/or installation of manufactured homes is substandard and needs the code enforcer to improve on the homes design.

Here are a few things that installers and retailers must do to start to get code enforcers to view manufactured housing for what it is: sophisticated, code compliant, safe, high quality, durable and yet affordable housing.

Stop using the term “mobile home”. If it was built before June, 1976, fine, call it a “mobile home”. But today we produce and install “manufactured homes” and the differences are significant. If you want state and local code officials and the home buying public to think that the industry of today is producing and installing the same product that we did over 40+ years ago, then keep using outdated terms. But if we ever have hopes of getting people to understand that the manufactured home of today compares favorably to every other housing product on the market, then we must use proper terminology. 

Accept that you as the installer are the primary source of information for the code official. If you start to improve the building permit application process, you can begin to drive your code official to better understand our program. For example:

  • Provide a copy of your installer license with every installation. The code official is the first line of defense in stopping unlicensed installers. Presenting your license with every permit application, supports the notion that only trained professionals should be installing manufactured homes.      
  • Provide DAPIA approved details (from the installation manuals) to the code official to used to conduct the inspections.  Single page, unapproved pier (or footer) prints do not illustrate that the real installation drawings and details have already been reviewed and approved. Far too many code officials don’t understand that the plan review has already been performed for them!
  • On the other extreme, it seems that too many people just give the code official the entire installation manual and expect them to make sense of it. We should organize the DAPIA approved designs needed for the installation so that they are easily followed. Utilizing a cover sheet is one way to do that. This not only educates the code officials, it is a great tool for installers as well. Click here for a sample that you can use: MH Building Permit Coversheet
  • Be present at the inspections. There is no better time to provide training than this. Bring the DAPIA approved designs (and maybe your copy of the Manufactured Home Construction & Safety Standards) with you and whenever a question is asked, refer to the designs or standards.

 At this point, I know many of you are thinking that you would rather not make waves, and that the code official won’t listen, and a ton of other reasons as to why you prefer the status quo. But, like it or not, the industry is changing and what worked for us in 1976 is not going to work tomorrow.

I was encouraged to learn folks from HUD and SEBA are speaking at a national meeting of code officials in September to discuss installation.  I have been conducting code official training for the past several years, and I can tell you, they are receptive to the message when we present it properly.

Bottom line is that either we start driving the state/local code officials to understand and respect our program, or manufactured housing will go the way of typewriters, telephone booths, and record albums.

 

The Housing Shortage in Nebraska & the Role of Manufactured Housing

Friends,

The article Why Nebraska Has An Amazing Jobs Market But Nobody Is Moving There was published in the WASHINGTON POST last night, and is worth a look (click on the highlighted text above).

Ultimately, it makes us look at the cost of installation as impacting affordability.

I think you will find it interesting.

Let’s Talk About Bottom Board

I know that all too often we take for granted the importance of that black, plastic-like material that stretches under the floor of manufactured homes. Some folks, (and the manufacturer’s installation instructions), call it bottom board. Others call it “underbelly” or “belly board” or some other name, but for today, lets just call it “bottom board”.

Obviously the bottom board is needed to secure and protect the floor insulation, and keep critters out of the floor cavity. But that is only half of the story.

I am certain that you have had your customers ask you why the holes cut in the floor decking for drain lines are often over cut. Why does the factory cut 2 ½” holes for a 2” pipe? What about the big hole for the bathtub “P” trap? We all have seen homeowners stuff insulation around these pipes in an effort to reduce heat loss. But is this necessary?  Not really!

Leaking “P” trap was fixed, but the installer failed to replace the insulation and repair the bottom board!

If you look under the floor decking, you will see cables, drain lines, water supply lines and most likely, un-insulated metal heat ducts. These un-insulated heat ducts keep the entire floor system warm in the winter, and prevent the water pipes from freezing. Since the floor cavity is in a sense “conditioned space” those holes in the floor decking are not a path of heat loss or air infiltration. So, what keeps the outside, unconditioned air from getting inside of the floor cavity? The Bottom Board!!

Water lines in the floor. Be sure to replace the insulation and access panels to keep from freezing!

The bottom board acts as the pressure envelope, which is the primary air barrier to limit air leakage. With that in mind, we should start thinking about the bottom board as less of a part of the transportation system, and more of a thermal component which is critical to the overall performance of the manufactured home’s energy efficiency!

The red line represents the pressure envelope that is intended to contain the conditioned air inside the home.

Consider the impact of every hole, slice, cut, tear or missing access panel of the bottom board.  They all allow unconditioned air to enter the floor cavity. This unconditioned air can cause significant damage to the home. In summer months, it can cause condensation to form on the heat ducts, and promote the growth of mold and mildew. In the winter, it can cause higher heating bills, and could impact consumer comfort.

The manufacturer’s installation instructions all require the installer to “Repair and Seal Bottom Board”.  For new homes, make sure you inspect the bottom board upon delivery, and report any holes, tears or road damage to the manufacturer. If you need to make any repairs, follow the information in the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Replace missing, wet, damaged or dirty insulation. Allowing wet insulation to dry out does not make it as good as new, it must be replaced. Just be sure to maintain the same R value as was originally installed in the floor.

Tape over lag bolts with an approved bottom board tape.

Make certain that the material you use to make any repairs or patches are appropriate for the job. I know a lot of installers use “Flex-Mend” with great success, and it is approved for this application.  If the area to repair is too large, use staples and a backer board of ¼” plywood or similar materials.  On multi-section homes, you should tape over the lags used to secure the floors together.

Be sure to clean the surfaces where the patch is to be applied. The HUD Code clearly states that any patches must be just as durable as the original bottom board material, see 24 CFR 3280.305(g)(6). Duct tape is not approved for bottom board repairs!

Duct Tape is not an approved material for repairing bottom board.

 

If you are a professional installer that is using the Complete Installation Checklist for every home you install, you already know that there is a line item for bottom board holes and tears.

I hope that installers, retailers,  community owners, and consumers are on the lookout for cable television, telephone, or satellite dish service technicians that have no respect for the importance of the bottom board under our homes. Their all too common practice of slicing open the bottom board to fish their cables and wires, must stop!

Bottom Board cut in two places for fishing cables.

Finally, many savvy industry professionals are now performing annual service inspections on their customer’s homes. For those of you that provide this service, make sure bottom board repair/patching is on your inspection checklist. If you don’t offer annual service inspections, maybe you should. It can be a money maker for you, and a money saver for your customers.

Shipped Loose Plumbing-What You Should Expect

It seems that at every installation training or seminar I present, installers and retailers complain that the home manufacturer is not providing the materials needed to complete the drain lines under the manufactured home. So I decided to take a look at this issue and see what we can learn.

The first thing we need to do is see exactly what the Manufactured Home Construction & Safety Standards (HUD Code) says about this.

Check out 24 CFR 3280.610(c)(1)-Drainage systems:

Each manufactured home shall have only one drain outlet.

Ok, now check out 24 CFR 3280.610(c)(5) Preassembly of Drain Lines:

Sections of the drainage system, designed to be located underneath the home, are not required to be factory installed when the manufacturer designs the system for site assembly and also provides all materials and components, including piping, fittings, cement, supports and instructions necessary for proper site installation.

So, when you look at both sections together, it should be pretty clear.  The manufacturer is going to design the drainage system so that all of the individual drain line drops through the floor can be connected to one point AND they must provide all the materials needed for the installer to complete the drainage system according to the provided design.

To know that you are getting all the plumbing parts you are required to receive, you need to look at the design supplied with each new manufactured home shipped from the factory. Generally, this DAPIA approved design is included with the box of other shipped loose parts needed to complete the home. Following this design, you should be able to connect all of the drain line drops to that required “one drain outlet” with materials provided by the manufacturer. 

The materials needed to complete the plumbing in the circled area would be shipped loose inside the home.

 

There is another reason it is important that the manufacturers supply installers with the needed parts and designs to complete the drain line, and it is called “preemption”. HUD has ruled (in a letter dated 12-4-1996) that state or local code enforcement may not require licensed plumbers to assemble shipped loose plumbing. But if you are not installing the drainage system according to the Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standard, (by not following the DAPIA approved design, or using your own materials) then the local code requirements could apply. 

It is important to note that where the drain lines from the home connect to the main sewage connection the local authority has control, and at that connection, a licensed plumber can be required. 

If you are installing manufactured homes in an area that requires licensed plumbers to assemble the drain system, you should consider working with the manufacturers, your state officials, and possibly HUD to end this unnecessary requirement.

If your manufacturer is not shipping these required drain line parts with the home, you should show him 24 CFR 3280.610(c)(5). This is just one more reason why it is important for professional installers to know the HUD Code!

I hope this information is helpful.

Let’s Talk About Spacers and Shims

A few weeks ago, we looked at pier cap blocks, so now it makes sense to talk about spacers and shims.

Just so we are on the same page, a spacer can be used to fill in the space between the cap block and the frame (chassis) if that space is more than can be shimmed (1″). Sounds simple enough, right??? Well think again.

Double block pier, concrete footing under the ground vapor barrier, double 4″ solid masonry cap blocks, 2″ hardwood spacers and hardwood shims. Nice job!

The Model Manufactured Home Installation Standards describe a spacer as “Hardwood plates no thicker than 2” nominal in thickness or 2” of 4” nominal concrete block…”. (3285.304(c)(3)). But the individual manufacturers’ installation instructions often provide more options, and sometimes confusing details.

Most manufacturers allow 2” x 6” hardwood spacers. One spacer for single stack block pier, two spacers for a double stack block pier (one per cap block). If you stick with this, you will be in good shape.

 A recently revised instruction manual now defines a spacer as “hardwood, southern pine, or Douglas fir larch dimensional lumber 1x or 2x (2 layers maximum)”.  This is the first time I have seen pine in the same category as hardwood, not to mention allowing the spacer to be 1” thick. So, for those of you that like to use 5/4 pressure treated decking boards as spacers this appears to be one of the first DAPIA approvals for this method.

2″ hardwood spacer on a 4″ solid masonry cap block. Too bad the strap is loose.

When checking your installation manual, look at both the table and the text. Many instructions will specify “Nominal 2” thick boards” in the Pier Minimum Specification Table. BUT, if you turn to the text at “Install Shims” generally on the next page, they allow hardwood or concrete, not just 2” thick boards.

spacer text

Pressure treated hardwood dimension lumber is mentioned in a few manuals, but I have yet to see pressure treated hardwood. Maybe it’s a regional thing, but where I come from, hardwood is not pressure treated.

I even saw a few manufacturers’ installation instructions that don’t mention spacers. Just be sure to double check with your manufacturer to be certain that you are following their instructions.

When it comes to the overall size of the spacer, most pier illustrations show a 2” x 6” spacer board. While the installation instructions don’t specify the length of the spacer, the illustrations appear to show them the full length of the pier cap (16”). 

While there appears to be variation in the materials prescribed by different manufacturers, make sure to stay away from plywood or OSB! These materials will delaminate rather quickly and will certainly cause problems.

When it comes to shims, the installation instructions are more straight forward.

Use proper size spacers and hardwood shims! Not cedar shims like this!

Hardwood shims, 4” x 6” x 1” thick, must be used in pairs, and cannot occupy more than 1” total between the cap block (or spacer) and frame (I-beam). And like the spacers and cap blocks, a double block pier would require two sets of shims, one set atop each cap block.

Plastic Shims

Most manufacturers allow for plastic shims of sufficient capacity. I believe that plastic shims are a great choice for piers in porch areas, where water can pass between the decking boards and lead to premature decay of wooden shims. Also, the plastic shims are grooved so that they cannot slip apart. Again, I did see one manufacturer allows southern pine or Douglas fir shims in addition to hardwood. But generally plastic is the only exception to hardwood shims.

Hopefully, this post will encourage you to examine your current practices regarding spacers and shims, and to be certain you are following the manufacturers’ installation instructions. If you have questions, call the manufactuer’s Quality Assurance Manager and ask him to clarify their requirements.

Information Regarding the HUD Forms 305, 306, 307 & 308

Note: this information only pertains to HUD licensed manufactured home installers and manufactured home retailers that are located, or are selling new manufactured homes into states where HUD administers the Manufactured Housing Installation Program.

I have received a few questions lately regarding the continued use of the HUD Manufactured Housing Reporting Forms listed above, as they have reached the White House Office of Management and Budget (OMB) expiration date of April 30, 2018.

Notice the date at the top right.

 

Please understand that reaching the expiration date does NOT make the forms invalid. Manufactured home installers and retailers should continue to use the forms as in the past.

The OMB performs a periodic review of all forms issued by federal government agencies to assure that they are current and applicable to the rules and regulations of each particular program. The program staff at HUD have assured me that the forms are in the review process, and that they should be approved at some point in the future.

So, don’t worry or change your current practice as a result of the expiration date. Continue to complete and process the required forms as in the past!

As they say in England,  Keep Calm and Carry On!

Let’s Talk About Pier Caps

After some recent inspections I thought we should talk a little bit about properly capping concrete block piers.

The function of the pier cap is to evenly distribute the weight of the manufactured home, its contents and the added weight of any potential snow on the roof into the concrete block pier. Ultimately, taking approximately 5,000 to 6,000 pounds from the chassis beam and spreading it out over the top of each concrete block pier in a manner so that the pier will not crack, break, or otherwise fail under the weight.

Properly constructed pier with 4″ solid masonry cap blocks

The first thing to remember is that the cap MUST be the same size as the pier.  A pier constructed of single stacked (8” x 16”) concrete blocks, must have a cap that measures 8” x 16”. If the cap does not fully cover the block, the weight will not be applied evenly over the top surface of the block, and the result will likely be a failure of the pier blocks.

Don’t do this! Cap blocks must cover the entire pier to properly transfer the load!

The biggest problem I see with cap blocks are that installers often use improper materials to cap concrete block piers.  DO NOT USE plywood, OSB, 1” thick lumber, or decking boards! Decking boards would include 5/4” x 6” pressure treated lumber or any composite type of decking.

I checked nine different manufacturers installation manuals, and found that six of the nine specify the same materials for pier caps:

Solid precast masonry 4” thick-8” x 16”, pressure treated lumber 2” x 8” x 16” or ½” thick x 8” x 16” painted steel. I must admit, I never saw anyone use ½” steel, so if you do, please send me a picture!

Check the Pier Material Minimum Specification chart in the current installation manual to be certain you are providing proper pier caps.

 

Two manufacturers don’t mention pressure treated lumber, and only specify 2” thick hardwood as an option to 4” masonry or steel. One manufacturer simply says solid masonry or hardwood with no mention of thickness!

2″ x 8″ x 16″ pressure treated lumber pier cap

 Now is a great time to double check that you are using proper materials as pier caps. As installation manuals are prone to change, make certain that you are using the current manuals for the homes you are receiving. I know that some folks are using ABS (plastic) pier caps. If that is you, be sure to get a DAPIA approved design from the manufacturer for your installer file.

A Tool to Improve the Building Permit Application Process

Having just wrapped up a week of talking to building code officials in three different states, I was reminded of the importance of the building permit application process and how professional installers need to improve the flow of information between themselves and the building code officials. 

Far too many installers continue to pretend that the entire installation process for a manufactured home can be boiled down to a one-page pier print. Then complain if the code official doesn’t uniformly enforce installation requirements on other installers. The problem is that it is very difficult to organize the documents needed into a manageable sized packet of information. The typical installation manual is far too cumbersome and code officials are not going to spend time flipping through these 100+ page manuals for each permit application. Nor should they!

I thought if we could create a tool to help assemble a packet of designs, extracted from the manufacturer’s  installation instructions, it could streamline the process, focus on the important issues of support and stabilization and help eliminate bad actors from the business of manufactured home installation. This post is intended to help installers assemble just such an informational packet through the use of a cover-sheet to pull everything together! 

I know you don’t think you have the time to organize all the documents needed for a complete building permit application, or that the code official doesn’t want anymore then the one page pier print. But if we are ever going to move the manufactured housing industry and careers as professional installers forward, we need to look at the bigger picture when it comes to working with building code officials. 

Here are a few things to consider:

 Manufactured homes have gotten significantly more sophisticated over the years, yet our approach to working with the building code officials remains unchanged! If we want to improve the image of manufactured housing and attract a larger segment of the home buying public, we need to earn the confidence of the code officials.    

Getting familiar with charts like this is step #1 to a more professional installation

 As a trained and licensed professional installer, you should take charge of your installations by being in control of all of the documents needed to properly install the home. The way we have always done things in the past is probably wrong, out dated, and a waste of money and time. Housing designs have changed rapidly over the years, both installers and code officials must be on top of these changes. The only way to keep up with the changes is to make sure we are submitting and following current and pertinent installation documents with every permit application. We just lacked a tool to help installers organize the designs they need for a building permit. 

 Are there unlicensed installers stealing work from you? Once building code officials start seeing exactly what is to be expected for every building permit and subsequent installation, unlicensed installers will not be able to keep the pace.

 Most importantly, a properly applied for building permit eliminates variables and unknowns from the process and goes a long way in increasing profits and reducing liability.

Ok…here is a breakdown on what should be included at permit application as a minimum:

Identify the licensed installer! Show the code official your license so that they come to expect a licensed installer for every new manufactured home installation.

Identify the home by manufacturer as well as home width, side wall height, roof pitch, foundation type and for a few manufacturers, the size of the eaves along the sidewall.

A copy of the manufacturer’s DAPIA approved installation instructions that highlight the appropriate charts and tables needed to construct the foundation. If not submitting the entire installation manual and only the table of contents page shows the DAPIA stamp, provide a copy of that page as well.

Provide DAPIA approved documents from the manufacturer that show approval for any alternate installation methods you might be using (such as alternative anchoring system or shallow frost protected foundation).

Include the Complete Installation Checklist from the installation manual or a Expanded Installation Checklist (from October 16, 2017 post) to better address the installation.

Provide notes on the soil bearing capacity, frost depth and other site-specific considerations that are needed to assure a proper installation.

Typical Pier Print-an installation tool, but must be used with several other design details.

 

And finally, prepare a plan of the home where you can layout the proper location of piers. CAUTION! Pier prints from the manufacturer are not to be trusted. Every pier print refers the installer to the actual installation instructions.  You may want to use the pier print as a tool to help you determine pier locations, but never trust these pier prints without first reviewing it yourself! 

A sample of the permit application cover sheet.

The link below will take you to my attempt at developing a tool to help professional installers organize the documents needed for the building permit application. Feel free to modify it for your particular use.  Click Here for Manufactured Home Building Permit Application Cover Sheet

You will likely need to add some additional documents for the code official (plot plan, sewer tap permits, etc.), but the cover sheet in the above link, will help you get the home specific details in order. Consider making this a part of your typical building permit procedure. I promise, if you try it one time you will quickly see the benefit!