Expanded Installation Checklist

Those of you who have attended any of my training courses over the past several years, know that I am a big fan of using checklists to document the proper installation of manufactured homes.

The Manufactured Housing Improvement Act requires that installers of new manufactured homes maintain records for at least 3 years. However, they don’t tell you what these records should look like. At a minimum, I have suggested installers use the “Complete Installation Checklist” (found toward the back of every manufacturers installation manual) as the basis for their record keeping.

I contend the checklist should be the most important tool for installers to not only use as a defense in the event of a legal proceeding, but to also help reduce the chance of call backs due to some little problem that may have been overlooked. It is just good business

But to be honest, the checklists provided in the installation manuals are pretty weak (see the example on the left).  So, I came up with a checklist that would hopefully function better for installers and become a more useful tool. It is attached to the bottom of this post for your use (both a word document and PDF). This checklist captures all of the items from the checklist provided in the manuals, and includes some important elements that are left out.   But here is what I think is the best part, the attached checklist can be customized.

You can download this checklist and make your own edits that will specifically work for you. Maybe you want to split it up and assign specific responsibilities to certain people. Maybe you want a checklist limited to single section homes. Maybe you want to make it specific for a particular anchoring system. The choices are yours.

Keep in mind, no checklist (including this one) can every cover every aspect of the installation process. But, I do believe that this goes further than what is currently available. As always, make sure you refer to the home manufacturer installation instructions for proper installation methods

So, have at it! Share comments should you see anything you think is in error or missing!  But most importantly, start keeping records and use some type of checklist!

Expanded Manufactured Housing Installers Checklist

Expanded Manufactured Housing Installers Checklist PDF


Exterior Coverings-Roofing

Shingles blew off due to improper fastening.

Now that Fall is here, I thought it might be the right time to start talking about roofing and siding on manufactured homes. If you check the Manufactured Home Construction & Safety Standards (3280.307) you won’t find a lot of detail. Basically, we need to use corrosive resistant fasteners (shipped from the factory for new homes) to attach an exterior covering that must prevent infiltration of air, water and vermin. 

Bottom line, the code requires that we install the exterior coverings to the product installation instructions. So, it is smart to read the shingle bundle  wrapper, the siding box, or the little instructional insert found in other products.

Let’s take a closer look at some of these roofing and siding products, starting at the top. Roofing! I am going to try and focus on issues that installers are faced with, and what I most commonly see in the field in regards to roofing:

1.       Shingles damaged by the factory installed wind deflectors.

I know you have seen furring strips nailed to the roof with so many nails or staples you can barely get a pry bar underneath to pull them free! Inevitably, the shingles get damaged trying to pull the strips off. And what do you do about the holes left behind from all of those nails? Here is the kicker, when a shingle is damaged, it should be replaced. There is no approved method in any of the installation manuals I have seen that show how to repair a shingle. If your manufacturer is shooting way too many nails in these strips, take some pictures and send them to the QC manager! And ask for a design for proper repair!

2.       High fasteners that prevent shingles from sealing together and allow wind under the tabs.

If the nail head or staple crown prevents proper sealing because it is not driven flush, the shingle can blow off or the fastener can even cut through the tab.

3.       Over-driven fasteners are just as bad! A nail head or staple crown that cuts into the shingle will surely lead to shingle flying off on windy days.

Hinged roof shingles not laying flat.

4.       Hinged roof shingles not lying flat.  You can’t assume that the shingles will lay down over time. The manufacturers rely on you for feedback on how the hinged part of the roof knits together. So, make sure you report any problems back to them!

Drip edge not projects past shingles.

5.       Drip edge projecting past the shingles. This is a problem when the installer has to install the last few feet of drip edge to reach the peak of the roof or along a hinged area. If you can’t slip the drip edge under the shingles so that there is at least ¼” of shingle past the drip edge, you need to report it to the manufacturer. Don’t cut the drip edge to go around a rogue nail or staple.

The other issue that I think we should look at is ice dam protection. To protect the eaves of the roof from water infiltration due to ice damming, manufactured homes produced for cold climates are provided with a type of ice and water shield. The Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association (ARMA) says that in areas where the average January temperature is 25° of less, ice dam protection is needed.  I typically see manufacturers use either a self-adhesive product, or they use a multi-layer application of roofing paper that is roof cemented to the roof decking and covered with a second layer of the same paper cemented to the first.

In both cases, the ice dam protection extends from the edge of the roof deck to a point 24” past the interior wall finish of the exterior wall. Should you be called upon to repair any damaged roofing along the eaves of the home, make certain you are provided the needed designs to properly correct the ice and water shield.

How Improper roof ventilation causes ice build-up.

The roof insulation blocking the vented soffit, could result in ice damming!

Generally the top reason an ice dam forms along the eaves of any home is due to improper roof ventilation! The HUD code requires that there be a 1” air space under the roof decking to eliminate cold spots that would lead to freezing of any water running down the roof. Should you have a home with ice dam issues, report it to the manufacturer and ask them to check the roof insulation!

Ok…next time we will talk a little about vinyl siding!

Piers You’ve Probably Overlooked!

I know that most professional installers are very conscientious when it comes to proper pier placement. But with all the variations in the installation instructions, some piers are often missed. Even while the manufacturers are required to identify “point load support areas” many areas are still overlooked.

One example of identifying point load locations.

Let’s take a quick look at some of manufacturers installation instructions to see where they do or do not require “point load” support piers.  


I started with the new Clayton Installation Manual to see exactly where they require point load support. They want supports at each side of exterior doors in the side wall. No support is needed if the door is on the end wall supported by a “steel header”. So, do we need supports if the door is at the tail end of the home if it doesn’t have a header? They go further and say no support in needed for doors in the side wall if the chassis I-beam spacing is 112”.

A support pier may be needed at through-the-rim crossover locations.

Support is also required at locations where through-the-rim joist heat duct penetrate the floor rim-joist.  I have seen this requirement in a few installation manuals, but not much further direction. I don’t know exactly where to position this pier, and I have never seen these areas identified as point load support areas on the underside of any home. 

A support is needed at each side of a factory installed fireplace when located along the side wall or marriage wall, (again with the exception of fireplaces supported by the front chassis crossmember). 

Adjustable outrigger at patio door location. Note the white paint marking the location.

The Clayton Installation Manual does allow adjustable outriggers to replace piers at the fireplace locations and door locations (less than 48”) along the marriage wall or side wall. The Clayton Manual doesn’t mention the use of an adjustable outrigger at the “through-the-rim” heat duct location. (check out page 21 on the Clayton Installation Manual).

So, just for fun, I decided to compare a few other installation manuals, starting with Champion.  

Window configuration creates side wall opening greater than 4′.

When it comes to doors, Champion is pretty clear (page 16). They require a support at each point load including: both sides of doors in the side wall. If the door is less than 48”, adjustable outriggers may be used in place of door piers. “Blocking” is not required for doors in non-load bearing end-walls.  

Here is an interesting one: Champion requires support “Under heavy (400 lbs or greater) items, such as heavy furniture, waterbeds, fireplaces and large fish tanks”. I better have a few extra blocks ready for the next visit from my mother-in-law!

Typical porch support.

What about Commodore/Colony you say? Ok, turn to page 15 in their installation manual. They want support at both sides of exterior doors at the side wall, but not at doors in the end walls. Porch posts always require support. They also want a support at through-the-rim heat crossover ducts, and under heavy items like waterbeds, fireplaces, and mothers-in-laws.  

Here is the curve ball: “…where marriage line openings are greater than 10 feet, intermediate supports must be placed at maximum 10 feet on center”. Some other manufacturers have this same requirement. Others only want these intermediate supports if the home has perimeter supports (evenly spaced under the side walls).

T Brace (pier saver).

I think it’s only fair to say, that Commodore/Colony was the first manufacturer I was aware of to introduce “Pier Savers” for support of patio and other exterior doors! I am a big fan of pier savers.  Look up their “Alternate T Brace” addendum A-7.

Adjustable Outrigger

Skyline requires a support at exterior doors on side walls (not end walls), typical 4’ marriage line and side wall openings, through-the-rim crossover ducts, porch posts, heavy furniture, fireplaces, etc. BUT..Skyline utilizes the adjustable outriggers more liberally than most. Basically you can use an adjustable outrigger to replace a support with a load up to 1,700 lbs. Go to their charts on page 20 of their installation manual for span loads. Some Skyline plants provide the adjustable outriggers with the homes. Make sure you get a copy of the “Addendum to Installation Instructions for Installation of Adjustable Outriggers”   

Shear wall strap needs pier support.

Finally, I checked out Fleetwood, pretty similar to the others, except they want support at “labeled G-2 strap locations” (see page 20 in their installation manual)

At this point you might be thinking, “just follow the pier print”. Well, I checked out a handful of “pier prints”, and most of the locations mentioned above are NOT identified on the pier prints. None showed the piers at the through-the-rim crossovers, or at any fireplaces. Also, the “intermediate” supports at the marriage line is missed by most. One pier print I noticed shows piers that defied any reasoning!

OK, here are the take-aways:

There is no “One Size Fits All”. Make sure you take 30 seconds, and open the installation manual and look under the heading “Install Footings” where you “Determine Locations”. Make sure you know each particular manufacturer’s variations.

Don’t trust the pier prints! Never, Ever! Follow only DAPIA stamped (approved) designs and instructions.

Investigate pier savers and adjustable outriggers! Some manufacturers already approve their use. If yours doesn’t, start asking for approval! The squeaky wheel always gets the grease.

And lastly, don’t invite my mother-in-law to your house!

Talking About Manufactured Homes, Post Harvey & Irma

Over the past few weeks, our industry has received a considerable amount of attention from the media and emergency management agencies. Unfortunately, most of the attention hasn’t been favorable.  Now is the time to refocus the attention on manufactured housing that is completed by professional installers, and meets or exceeds the various elements of the Manufactured Home Construction & Safety Standards (HUD Code), to provide not only affordable housing, but housing that is durable, high quality and above all, safe. Let’s discuss a few facts that you can share with your customers and the general public: 

  • There has not been a “mobile home” produced in over 41 years. You are installing and/or selling “manufactured homes” and the difference is significant. Don’t diminish the immense improvements that have been made by the industry since 1976. Use the proper terminology!
  • The HUD Code takes wind storm protections very seriously. The country has 3 different wind zones to address areas susceptible to wind hazard. Wind Zone II requires homes to be designed to accept 100 MPH winds. Wind Zone III’s design load is 110 MPH.
  • The anchoring process for manufactured homes has been completely revolutionized since 1976. There are newer anchoring systems available that not only meet the code requirements, but they are considerably easier to install and less susceptible to problems from site grading, frost heave or other environmental problems.  If you haven’t re-examined your anchoring procedures, you need to immediately. Look at a previous posts on this topic.  Introduction to Alternative Anchoring Systems
  • Every new manufactured home sold today is installed by a trained professional. And every installation is required to be verified for proper installation by a building code official or similar code enforcer.

Much of the destruction caused by Hurricanes Harvey and Irma was beyond the ability of any residential building code. Many homes sustained damage from impact of flying debris and flooding, as opposed to wind storm. Did you know you can equip manufactured homes with hurricane shutters to protect large windows and glass doors? Check the home installation instructions under “Complete Exterior Work” or visit www.apawood.org for more information (search for hurricane shutter designs) .

In far too many cases, manufactured homes were damaged due to the failure of carports, patio covers, awnings, and similar after-market additions that catch the wind and impose pressures on the home well beyond the intended design load. I am sure you all know that these types of accessory structures must be independently supported. If you haven’t already, watch this video, Click Here, it clearly illustrates the problems that attached structures can cause.

Remember, the HUD Code is a minimum code. Have you considered offering your customer the next step up? Offering a middle snow load in the south zone? Offering Wind Zone II in Wind Zone 1?  A higher level of performance is a feature that can be easily marketed, and may be instrumental in changing the narrative. Not every buying decision is based in the lowest price. Give your customers options and they just might choose a higher level of performance.

I think the time is right to start talking about the improvements that have been made over the past several years. If we continue with a mobile home mentality, the media and public will remain skeptical of our industry and never learn about these important changes and high level of performance and safety a properly installer manufactured home can deliver!

Water Heater Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve Discharge Pipe

A few installers have raised a question about the discharge pipe for the water heater Temperature and Pressure (T&P) relief valve. Ultimately, should the water heater T&P discharge pipe be run to the exterior of the crawl space? 

I did a little research and quickly discovered that this issue needs much more discussion than is provided in the manufacturer’s installation instructions, or that we can accomplish here! But we should start thinking about it.

The first thing to understand is the job of the T&P valve. If the temperature in the water heater reaches 210° or the pressure reaches 150 psi, the relief valve will open reducing the pressure or releasing heated water to be replaced with cold water. This is  to prevent a potentially catastrophic failure. Just image the power that can be generated when the water starts to boil inside the tank! There have been reports of water heaters exploding and propelling themselves through the walls causing significant damage to the home.

The amount of heated water that can be expelled through the T&P discharge pipe can range from a trickle to a gusher! Either way it enough to cause severe burns!

The manufacturer’s installation instructions don’t offer much guidance. I reviewed several “Complete Installation Checklists and they all state “Dryer vent, range/cook top exhaust, water heater temperature and pressure relief overflow pipe and AC condensate drain installed to the perimeter of the crawl space”.

If you look a little deeper in the manufacturer’s installation instructions, several state “If the home is to be installed on a basement or enclosed crawlspace, install the drain pipe connecting the discharge from the water heater temperature and pressure relief valve to the outside or to a sump”. I did find a few exceptions that clearly state that the T&P may discharge under the home. But bottom line, there is no consistency in the various manuals, and no direction as how to safely extend this discharge pipe to outside of the crawl space.

In my opinion, the installation of vinyl skirting around the perimeter of the home meets the criteria of a crawl space, and I have yet to see any definitions that say differently. So, I guess they are saying to run the T&P discharge pipe outside the skirting.

T&P & water heater pan pipes discharging under the home.

Finally, I double checked the Manufactured Home Construction and Safety Standards (245 CFR 3280.609(c)(iii). It says the “relief valve outlet which shall be directed downward and discharge beneath the manufactured home”. 

So, what should a professional installer do?

If you should decide to extend the T&P discharge pipe to the exterior of the crawl space, keep these things in mind:

The T&P pipe should have an elbow directing any discharge downward.

Any water being discharged from these T&P valves is extremely hot with the potential to cause damage to people, pets or property in the area. Make sure the pipe points downward to about 6” above grade to reduce the possibility of injury! Make sure it is visible, but away from an area where people or pets might be injured.

Any extension of this pipe must be the same size as the discharge pipe attached to the valve. Keep the piping as short as possible (less than 30’ total length), with as few elbows as needed (four elbows are the maximum permitted).  Any horizontal sections must slope away from the valve. Do NOT install a trap, shut off valve, or a cap on the discharge pipe!

Never connect the T&P discharge pipe to the DWV (drainage) system of the home. Should the valve become defective, the occupant would never know, and in the event of a violent discharge, the DWV system could be damaged and people possibly injured. Not to mention possible contamination of the water supply!

I suggest a discussion with the local code enforcer to get his take on this issue. Also, review the water heater instructions and see what they say. Contact the home manufacturer’s engineering department for their input as well.

Unfortunately, there may not be a simple, straight answer to this question. But maybe this discussion will help us to make the best decision to assure the safe operation of these water heater T&P valves.

I would appreciate hearing your comments on this issue!


FEMA requesting Manufactured Homes for Harvey

FEMA has announced that it is asking the manufactured housing industry to produce at least 4,500 manufactured homes to start providing housing for the people displaced by Hurricane Harvey.

Exeter, PA, November 19, 2011–FEMA contractors build a ramp into a temporary housing unit at the Mt. Lookout Community site in Exeter, Pennsylvania. The temporary housing units were brought in to house more than 300 disaster survivors who lost their homes following Tropical Storm Lee. Andrea Booher/FEMA

As a result, you will likely see manufacturers shifting production across their networks of plants. While the plants you may work with may not start producing FEMA homes, they may be called upon to increase production to meet the demand in other areas.

During Tropical Storm Lee and Hurricane Irene that hit the mid-Atlantic region in August and September 2011, FEMA not only supplied temporary housing units to those affected, but also established manufactured housing communities, including all infrastructure needed to support the new communities.

Tunkhannock, PA, November 19, 2011–FEMA contractors clear ground for the temporary housing units that will be brought in to the Highfieds Community site in Tunkhannock, Pennsylvania. The temporary housing units will house disaster survivors who lost their homes following Tropical Storm Lee. Andrea Booher/FEMA

Check out this news report from CBS News for a closer look. CLICK HERE

Wind Storm Protection Basics

Watching the news today and seeing the devastation caused by Hurricane Harvey, I thought it would be a good time to talk about some of the basic considerations that are critically important to making sure our homes can withstand the wind forces as intended.

1.       Do NOT attach car-ports, awnings, patio covers, and similar items, directly to the manufactured home. All manufacturers clearly state that all accessory structures be free standing and independently supported. Check out this short video from the Today Show:  Click Here        This video not only illustrates what can happen when a carport is attached to a home, but it also shows how you can still offer your customers these type of features without creating a hazardous situation.

2.       Make sure you have properly installed anchor strapping so it can be counted on to hold the home in place.

Purchased Strap Protectors

a.       Every place the anchor strap touches the main chassis beam or attaches to a bracket, the strap must be protected so that the sharp edges of the steel doesn’t shear off the strap. Strap protectors can be made from left over pieces of strap material or purchased. Just make sure you install them!

Angle Finder

b.       Strap angle is critical! Buy yourself an inexpensive angle finder and make sure your strap angle is less than 60°! If it is too steep, the home can slide off the piers!

3.       While we have recently written two posts on ground anchors (July 3 and July 13), there is still a lot more to discuss.

a.       Make sure the anchor is the right length (below frost the line), and installed in the ground by the skirting line! Not in a concrete footing.   

Rock Anchor

b.       Don’t use rock anchors or other types of anchors that aren’t intended to stabilize a manufactured home. Rock anchors are to be used in solid rock!

Stabilizing  Plate

c.       Stabilizing plates are critical to keep the anchor from slicing through the dirt when it is called upon to hold the home in place. Remember that a poorly graded site can undermine a great anchor installation!

4.       Consider using the newer anchoring systems. I am a big fan, primarily because then are considerably easier to successfully to install.  Also, they can satisfy end-wall anchoring requirements. In freezing climates, make sure you attach the system to frost protected concrete footings and take a few minutes to review the installation instructions.  I have found that the big three anchor suppliers (Minute Man, Oliver Technologies and Tie Down Engineering) are super helpful and are eager to provide technical assistance. Here are links to their websites where you can find a ton of helpful information:




Now is the time to re-examine your anchoring techniques. You might want to consider calling on some older homes and see if the residents might be agreeable to upgrading their anchoring system! Give it some thought, it might not seem as crazy as you think!

Education of Code Officials!

Whether we like it or not, state or local building code enforcement impacts every home we install. Sometimes it takes a big issue to make us feel the impact. For example, when HUD cracked down on attaching garages on manufactured homes, a lot of folks were upset and there was a lot of finger pointing trying to place the blame. The installers, community owners, retailers, and manufacturers that got caught up in the crack-down were potentially subject to penalties that could have cost them their livelihood. But from the very start, the local building code officials who permitted (and in many cases still do permit) garage attachment without giving a second thought, were in the best position to question or even stop this practice.

I recall a very heated exchange with a code official and trying to get him to understand that even though the manufactured home was exempt from the state building code, unauthorized alterations and additions to a manufactured home (especially ones as significant as attaching a garage) are not exempt. He maintained the position that he had no authority over anything regarding manufactured homes beyond issuing building permits.

Even today I still run across far too many code officials that believe that just entering a manufactured home exceeds their authority.

A local building code official taking the opposite approach can be just as problematic. A code official that imposes his own requirements with no regard for the manufacturers installation instructions can cause huge problems. Folks may think that as long you don’t “make him mad” that is all well and good. That is until a new sheriff comes to town and puts a stop to everything!  How do you convince the local code official that his long-held approach to anchoring, foundations, utility testing (just to name a few) not only violates the building code, but can actually harm the overall performance and durability of the home?

And there are still places areas in the country without any code enforcement. The problem with no code enforcement is that your competition will continue cutting corners and costs through non-compliant installations, additions, and so on. Nobody wants to lose sales to shoddy installation, but concrete costs money!

If you are in one of the 14 states where HUD oversees the installation of new manufactured homes, your relationship with the local code will take on more importance. You’ll likely struggle to explain to the code official the differences between new and relocated manufactured homes. You may be hard pressed to find a local code official that is willing to sign off on HUD forms. And most importantly, you can only hope that your code official accepts the same installation methods as the professional engineer, DAPIA, or whomever else you hire to sign the HUD form. How do satisfy them all! Next will come someone to monitor the installation! Fingers crossed!

So, what should we do? Is this a legitimate problem that we should start discussing, or do we let sleeping dogs lie??

I contend that if we can get all the local building code enforcers on the same page, here is what we can expect in return:

  • A level (ok…a slightly more level) playing field. It is hard to compete when you are digging footings to frost depth and your competition is barely removing the top soil! But if the code official knows the installation standard, and that he has the authority to oversee the foundation construction, it won’t take too long until the “dirt sets” are a thing of the past
  • Better installations and reduced liability. If we can get code officials to expect the proper documents to properly install the home, instead of just the “pier print”, then as installers we will not only be forced to improve our record keeping (which is the most important thing an installer can do to reduce liability), but also improve the overall installation.
  • Predictable costs and expectations. Just think how much more efficient we could be if you could install every home the same, regardless of which township, county, borough, or burg the home was being sited. It is extremely frustrating to hear how this township requires anchors be wet set in the concrete footings and that township requires insulated drain lines. There should be very minimal variations as a result of local code influence. But until such time as the code officials are taught that there is a comprehensive installation design to be followed for each and every installation, we will be at the whim of each and every code official
  • Greater market share. Did you ever ask an auto mechanic for advice before buying a car? Or ask a bartender for recommendations on a good drink. If you don’t think home buyers ask code officials about which housing product to buy, you are mistaken. If a code official knew that there are mechanisms to address problems, there are instructions and checklists that will assure proper installations, and when properly installed a manufactured home will deliver, safe, durable, high quality affordable housing, just think how many new customers we will find

Ok, I think I made my point. It is time to start educating code officials on the proper handling of manufactured housing. Let make it happen!

Introduction to Alternative Anchoring Systems

All Steel Foundation-OTI with longitudinal bracing

Over the past few weeks we have been talking about conventional ground anchors as the tie down system for manufactured homes. But let’s look at some alternative anchoring systems that might be able to simplify the process for you.

As always, make sure that the manufacturer has approved whatever system you choose and that it is also approved by their Design Approval Primary Inspection Agency (DAPIA). If you are in a state that has oversight authority, make sure they approve it as well. To the best of my knowledge, the three systems that we are going to look at today are approved by most manufacturers. But, never take my word, you need to get copies of the approvals for your installation files. 

Xi2-Tie Down Engineering


Let’s take a quick look at the:

All Steel Foundation from Oliver Technologies Click Here for Oliver Technologies

L & L Bracing System (LLBS)  from Minute Man Click here for Minute Man

Xi2 from Tie Down Engineering Click Here for Tie Down Engineering

LLBS-Minute Man

I am a big fan of all three systems. They are much easier to install than conventional ground anchors, and they will save you significant time as they install quickly. While the systems are similar in many regards, they do have differences, so make sure you follow the instructions particular to the system you choose. We will limit this discussion to manufactured homes installed in Wind Zone 1.

Here are the some of the similarities of the three systems:

Only 2 devices (opposite corners of the home) are needed to anchor a typical 2 section manufactured home. 5/12 roof pitch and greater would require three or more systems.

For single section homes, typically you will need two devices and a ground anchor installed at each corner of the home.

The systems are limited to a home with a maximum pier height of 48”.

The systems can be bolted or “wet set” into frost protected concrete footings.

All Steel Foundation-OTI-replaces a pier and anchors end walls.

They are easily adapted to address longitudinal anchoring. 


Xi2-Minute Man- Beam Clamp

LLBS from Tie Down-Beam Clamp

When using these systems, it is important to make sure you don’t mix parts. If you are using the Xi2, don’t use parts from Minute Man or OTI, if installing the OTI, don’t use Tie Down or Minute Man parts. I also believe that for multi-section homes it is important that your fastening at the marriage line be consistent with the installation instructions for the home being installed. Watch for gaps between the sections that may impede the transfer of wind load across the marriage line (this is true of all manufactured home installations).

If you are not using these systems, I encourage you to reconsider. All three producers provide exceptional customer support. They have comprehensive information on their websites including videos, and are very helpful on the phone and in person! 

From my perspective, it is a rare occasion when a manufactured home installed using conventional ground anchors is anchored properly; site grading, rocky soils, underground utilities, and frost depths make conventional ground anchors a challenge for many installers. However, installers using these alternative systems have had great success with these products.



HUD/SEBA Manufactured Housing Installation Webinar

On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 HUD & their contractor, SEBA  will be holding a webinar where they will lay out the requirements for installers and retailers in the HUD administered manufactured housing installation states including Michigan.

You will be able to ask questions at the end of the presentations and it is important that you do. Pre-registration is required. See the announcement below.

On May 15, 2017, The Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) incorporated the State of Michigan into its HUD-Administered Manufactured Home Installation Program (Installation Program). The HUD-Installation Program, which oversees regulations set forth in 24 Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) § 3285 and 3286, has also been fully implemented in 13 other states that do not operate their own qualifying installation program.

Michigan installers and retailers will be part of the HUD-Administered program that ensures safe and quality installation of new manufactured homes. The program’s primary requirements are the supervision of the installation of all new manufactured homes by a HUD-Licensed Installer, and all new homes must be inspected by a qualified inspector. The HUD program also has standardized reporting requirements for all new home installations 

This webinar will be open to all, not just those in Michigan, who may feel in need of a refresher on program requirements or who are still learning about the program

In order to participate, you must register using the information below to receive the dial-in number and pass-code or webinar access. After registering, you will receive a confirmation email containing information about joining the webinar. After registering, attendees have the option to only dial into the call using the number you are sent. However, those who do so will be in listen-only mode. All participants are encouraged to use the webinar option (computer) to maximize your participation and be able to ask questions at the end of the presentation